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Martha Gibbon

  • Feb. 9th, 2010 at 5:52 PM
doll corset
Patented a stay in 1800, there is an image in Costume 13.
Here is what I googled up.

The Annual register, or, A view of the history, politics, and literature for the Year 1800.

 By Edmund Burke
Page 385
"Martha Gibbon of King street Covent garden Middlesex dressmaker for a new invented stay for women and others Dated December 17"

The Monthly magazine, or British Register Volume 11
PART I FOR 1801 FROM JANUARY TO JUNE INCLUSIVE

 By Sir Richard Phillips
page 255
New Patents Lately Enrolled
"MRS MARTHA GIBBON o KING STREET COVENT GARDEN DRESS MAKER for a new invented stay for women and OTHERS
Some of the ancient piece of armour, made in the form of a waistcoat, with very long flaps, and broader both above and below than in the
middle will give an idea of the form of these stays. They are composed of a front and a back piece, each of which is supported by strips of
whalebone, nearly parallel, and the two pieces join together by hooks and eyes, or by lacing, or by any familiar contrivance, which meet at the
side, and will allow of being accommodated to the size of the wearer. They are made so long, as only to not be inconvenient when sitting
down; and they are calculated principally for giving support to the abdomen where this may be thought necessary, and also for correcting
deformities. They may be lined and stuffed or padded according to pleasure."
Other tidbits
page 271
Alphabetical List of Bankruptcies and Dividends
Ewer, J Queen Ann street east stay maker April 11


The Repertory of arts and manufactures
CONSISTING Of ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS of
PATENT INVENTIONS AND
SELECTIONS OF USEFUL PRACTICAL PAPERS PROM THE TRANSACTIONS OF THE
PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETIES OF ALL NATIONS  VOL XIV

1801
page 216
List of Patents
"Martha Gibbon of King street Covent Garden Middlesex press maker fgj a new invented stay for women and others Dated December 17 1800 "

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Two book reviews

  • Feb. 9th, 2010 at 4:10 PM
doll corset
I requested a few books that google books said had connections to Leoty, and I now have them out from the library.

The Intimate Interiors of Edouard Vuillard
by Elizabeth Wynne Easton
1989
ISBN 0-87474-402-4
Pages 26- 34 talk about how Edouard's mothere was a corsetmaker, though previouse writers had asumed she was a dressmaker this author points out the differences between corsetmakers and dresssmakers. Actually an interesting read for us interested in  corset history.
Page 28 is where Leoty is mentioned
"The Maison Leoty, for example, not only participated in extravagant advertising but also had an extencive collection of corsets spanning the centuries; Ernest Leoty, its proprietor, published the definitive book on the history of the corset in 1893."

Costume Number 13 1979
Articles of interest to me:
The Monmouth Cap by Kirstie Buckland page 23-37
'My small Child bed Linning' by Pamela Clabburd page 38-40 1797-8 layette list
Ease, Convenience and Stays, 1750-185 by Peter and Ann Mactaggart page 41-51 This is the most interesting article for this post.
Photograph of a Leoty corset in private collection which utilizes an 1835 patent for back closure which is a series of loops which a rod is passed through to close.
This is a very interesting article though it seems quite condenced! it does talk about Stays vs Jumps and Mentions maternity. also talks about long vs short stays and corsets in the regency which is also an interesting topc! especially when they touch on the Elastic stays!

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interesting corset

  • Feb. 3rd, 2010 at 6:24 PM
doll corset
Feminine c. 1909 Edwardian Corset with Green Ribbons
From Past Perfect Vintage

Do you think that the ribbons and fagoting were applied by the owner? Look closely at the binding. The ribbons appear to go down over the binding.


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I could be in so much trouble!

  • Feb. 3rd, 2010 at 11:30 AM
doll corset
[info]spiggymr7 has made patterns of some of her antique corsets. Of course coming from France they will be expensive! and the choices!!! I will have to wait until after I have some $$ of my own to order a few.
Take a look!

Oh and the Black dress form is the pattern I have and Made for [info]ladybrid 's mini teal corset. Yesterday I started one of my own in green cotton (as it was what I had in the stash) so I can display my skeleton on it.

corsetry tidbits

  • Feb. 1st, 2010 at 3:44 PM
doll corset

London of to-day: an illustrated handbook for the Season 1890

Page 428 Bust Bodice, with illustration and explanation!

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Feb. 1st, 2010

  • 3:31 PM
doll corset
google books appers to be down, but I have several of my Leoty links now in a word doc. Yes most are from Google Books!
and this time I am going to organize them subject and chronologically!

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WAHHHHH

  • Jan. 28th, 2010 at 6:39 PM
doll corset
LJ ate the text to my Leoty post!
AHH that was hours of work! hours!

Random links I found today.

  • Jan. 28th, 2010 at 6:37 PM
doll corset
yes I know, "get off the computer girl" hope all you researcher types liked my last post!


by Sandy Feinstein
Not full article, but quite enough to wet the mouth of anyone interested in Elizabethan corsetry!

Bibliography of costume: a dictionary catalog of about eight thousand books ...

 By Hilaire Hiler 1939 a book I just requested! (actually the 1867 edition)

A couple of Blogs
Fuchsias 18thcent dress
Adventures in Mantua Making
Two Nerdy History Girls

oh the horror

  • Jan. 27th, 2010 at 4:04 PM
doll corset
using an antique child's dress as a decoration in a child's bedroom. Not only will it get light and dust damage, but it is a kid's bedroom!

hello, can you hear me?

  • Jan. 26th, 2010 at 12:09 PM
doll corset
no responce from Brooklyn museum. I am wondering if I sent to the wrong e-mail addy or what?
my message was esentially: I bought this corset on e-bay and it has your inventory number on it, can you give me any history? and how about this other slekelton sold at Augusta?
I am thinking of writing another e-mail from my other acount but am torn between writing asking about my corset with it's # but not mentioning it having been sold, you know playing dumb. OR asking about a listing of the Isidor Roth corset collection, (which I am highly suspect both skeletons came from)
but before I do that I want to know if anyone has actually had success in asking the Brooklyn museum about clothing in their collection. especially [info]mmcnealy , as I know you were tracking down Royal Worcester.

todays pretties

  • Jan. 18th, 2010 at 4:13 PM
doll corset
Two stays from the Met.
C.I.39.13.212 18th cent, American or European with modesty panel at back lacing? lovely BLACK!
C.I.46.59.3 early 18th cent Spanish The front point was cut off as the binding is different. Lovely pattern matching on the gold silk brocade

Jan. 14th, 2010

  • 6:19 PM
doll corset
YWU posted this dress on FB
Now we don't have a front view, but there is this interesting additional piece.
Do you think it is a stomacher?
Could it have gone over a pregnant belly?
Guess we won't know unless we see the front.

stays fabric

  • Jan. 14th, 2010 at 5:08 PM
doll corset
I am using plastic boning, and will be sewing channels by machine, but beyond that I want to do "better"

Fabric options
Fabrics-store.com 3 yards of 8 oz for $20.38 that's $6.80 a yard Shipping is $8.4 via USPS
Burnley & Trowbridge Linen Canvas aprox 16 oz $16 per yard
B&T Heavy Weight Linen for $10 a yard

Binding
Burnley & Trowbridge 1/2" wide natural linen tape $1.40 a yard
Or a 36 yard roll for $45.36
Silly Sisters 3/4" leather 3 yard bundle $15 Or By the foot for $1.80 Shipping is $8.00 and not online!

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Exotic does not equal sloppy

  • Jan. 14th, 2010 at 4:03 PM
doll corset
so finish the armscyes of that "jacket"
Oh and boning and proper posture will make that "corset" look so much better.

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Why I chose to make Munchkin's outfit.

  • Jan. 13th, 2010 at 5:30 PM
doll corset
Why a sleeveless rock?
1. No sleeves to make! this worked well with my deadline.
2. Will work better in the summer, it is wool after all, and we live in California.
3. Better growth room. If you want to get the most growth room out of a garment with long sleeves, they start out too long, and then get too short. Short sleeves are better for growth, but sleeveless is best, then all you have to worry about is waistline and hem length. (which I made on the long side to start with)
4. I loved the inspiration image!

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